Jonathan hands you the paddle and pushes the kayak off the beach. The first few strokes feel clumsy. Then you find the rhythm and the coastline starts sliding past. The cliffs rise on your right. The water is so clear you can see every stone on the bottom.

The first cave entrance appears as a dark gap in the rock face. Jonathan goes in first and you follow. The sound changes immediately. Your paddle echoes off the walls. The temperature drops a few degrees. Your eyes adjust and then you see it. The water beneath you is glowing turquoise from the light refracting through the entrance behind you.

Jonathan does this thing where he shouts and the echo comes back three times. Everyone laughs. He paddles deeper into the cave and stops at a pool where the ceiling opens up. Sunlight pours through a crack above. He tells you to jump in. You do. The water is cool and perfectly still.

By the third cave you've stopped thinking about technique. By the fourth you've stopped checking the time. Jonathan knows where the light is best for photos. He knows which cave has the secret pool at the back. He has done this route a thousand times and still points at things like he's seeing them for the first time.