Jonathan pulls away from the Hondoq jetty and turns the boat toward Comino. Within a minute the cliffs appear. He slows down at the first cave and angles the boat so you can see inside. The water inside the cave glows. Phone cameras come out.

He does this five times. Each cave is different. Some are narrow slots where the engine echo fills the space. Some open into pools where the light hits the water from below. Jonathan knows which ones photograph best from which angle because he's done this run thousands of times.

Then the Blue Lagoon opens in front of you. Jonathan drops you at the spot where the water is clearest and the sand is whitest. You swim, you float, you eat your sandwiches on the rocks. When you're done, you wave at the next shuttle and you're back at Hondoq in 15 minutes.